"It's part of me, Scotland....
….I'm still immersed it, even if I'm not there.”
- Irvine Welsh
Each time I took a walk through the streets of Scotland, no matter the city, I felt as though I was leaving pieces of myself behind. By giving myself up to the movement of the streets I was able to escape the need to think which brought moments of peace. It’s a country that has become one of my favorites in the world, as if every moment spent in its body my veins became affixed with its essence. It’s a place full of such natural beauty and many man made wonders that I feel like it would take me a lifetime to explore and fully appreciate it.
Scotland’s picturesque landscapes, towns, derelict fortresses, villages, castles, ‘monstrous’ lochs, and mountains have been inspiring writers, poets, travelers, and artists for centuries. With a history that stretches back 10,000 years it’s a country that continuously moves forward. It survived the Roman Invasion, the Wars of Independence, the Protestant Reformation, both World Wars, and it’ll make to the other side of the Brexit situation. Along with its fascinating history you can find ancient and mysterious standing stones, tales of ghosts, magic and witches, mythical creatures, fairies, and unsolved mysteries. A combination that beckons you to walk its footpaths.
There are too many reasons for my love of Scotland that it’s impossible to narrow down. I simply love it… no, I love it intensely. It’s more than the history and folklore. It’s the people and the feeling you get just walking down street. The friendly faces and smiles that greet you no matter where you roam. There’s always laughter in the air and a feeling of home. Its unique appeal includes the ease in which one can travel from bustling pavements of the city center lined with cafes, restaurants, bars, historic sites, and art to isolation in stark contrast with open countryside. It’s a place where you could can travel at ease and you can hear more than just the English language while walking the streets… just enough to make you feel like you are truly some place else.
On this latest trip, as I’ve mentioned in my previous posts, I was able to travel with two of the best travel mates around. They had never been to Scotland and I was eager to light the flame in their hearts for the place I love so dearly.
Mission accomplished.
Honestly, I didn’t have to do much convincing.
As they were first timers to Edinburgh of course we needed to hit the sights, a walk down memory lane. I’m also happy to report that a map was not needed to maneuver the city. It also helped that we stayed not even 3 minutes from the Royal Mile.
While I’ll not fully detail our trip, I will provide for you places that you should go and things you should do when you visit the country in hopes that you’ll fall in love just as much as we have.
In Edinburgh…
Edinburgh Castle
To control the castle was to hold the keys to the kingdom. The castle fortress dominates the skyline of the city from its position on the Castle Rock, which is the plug of an extinct volcano estimated to have risen about 350 million years ago. Its home to some of the most fascinating history like housing the oldest surviving building in Scotland, aka St Margaret’s Chapel established in 1070, or that witches were burnt at the stake or that the Scottish jewels were lost inside the castle for over 100 years until someone found them in a chest in 1818. The castle provides an almost 360 degree view of the city and is one of my favorites.
St. Giles Cathedral
Also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, has been a key place of worship for almost 900 years. Sitting on the Royal Mile. On this past trip we were able to catch the end of a choir practice, the acoustics in the church are amazing.
Greyfriars Kirkyard
Was founded in 1561 and takes its name from the Franciscan friars who wore grey robes. This is also the graveyard where you can find the inspiration for some of the names in the Harry Potter series. J.K. Rowling would often wander through the graveyard while she was writing the books.
The kirkyard is also associated with Bobby, a terrier who became famous in the 19th-century for spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray, until he died himself in January of 1872. The dog's statue sits opposite the graveyard's gate, at the junction of George IV Bridge and Candlemaker Row, in front of Greyfriars Bobby, a local pub, and its nose has began to turn colors from people rubbing it over the years.
Dean Village
Just northwest of the city centre you’ll find the lesser traveled Dean Village, home to some of the most scenic residential spots. Emphasis on residential, so be respectful while walking around. It is known as the "Water of Leith Village" it was a successful grain milling area for more than 800 years. You feel like you’re walking in a fairy tale, waiting for a Disney song to start out of no where. Or you could just break out into song yourself.
Princes Street Gardens & the Scott Monument
Lying in the shadow of the castle are two adjacent public parks in the city centre. The gardens run along the south side of Princes Street and are divided by The Mound, where the National Gallery of Scotland and the Royal Scottish Academy are located. On days with good weather you can find people of all ages just hanging out on the grass and enjoying the sunshine and good company of friends. It’s also a great spot to people watch or curl up with a good book.
While walking through the garden I’m sure you won’t miss the the Victorian Gothic tower that sits 200 feet 6 inches high. It’s a tribute to Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott aka the Scott Monument. If you’ve seen Vampire Hunter D, it looks like the spaceship that Count Lee escapes on with Doris at the end. You’re able to walk up its 288 steps, aka narrow spiral staircases, to a series of viewing platforms giving panoramic views of central Edinburgh and its surroundings.
Mary King’s Close
Old Town’s grid system consisted originally of the main street, now known as the Royal Mile, and small alleyways/courtyards aka closes, that led off it to the north and south. Remember that the castle sits on atop a rock formation making this alleyways slope down which created the impression of a herring-bone pattern formed by the main street and side streets which is easy to see when looking at old maps of the city. Each of these closes, alleyways, usually took their names from a memorable occupant of one of the apartments. This particular close took its name from Mary King, a merchant burgess who resided on the Close in the 17th century.
Granted that Mary King’s Close is a touristy thing to do in the city, I actually really like it as it gives you more of a sense of the history and how people lived in the city in the 17th century. Plus you get to go underground into historic sites. (You can read more about it here or here)
Calton Hill
Located just beyond the east end of Princes Street you’ll find the headquarters of the Scottish Government, the Scottish Parliament Building and other notable buildings such as Holyrood Palace. It is also the site of iconic monuments and buildings: the National Monument, the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, the old Royal High School, the Robert Burns Monument, the Political Martyrs' Monument and the City Observatory. However, you can also call it the hill of useless things because.. well.. they don’t do anything! You do get a fantastic view of the city and of the castle from up there though.
Underground Vaults
The South Bridge in Edinburgh consists of a series of chambers formed in the nineteen arches that was completed in 1788. For around 30 years, the vaults were used to house taverns, workshops, and storage space for merchants. In the mid 1800s, the vaults were a hotspot for the homeless and criminal activity like illegal gambling, illegal whisky distilling and, according to rumour, bodysnatchers stored corpses there overnight. The only way you have access to the vaults is to take a tour, whether you believe in ghosts or like paranormal stuff, it’s still a pretty cool area to discover.
Arthur’s Seat
Arthur's Seat is the largest of the three parts of the volcano site in Edinburgh, the other parts being Calton Hill and the Castle Rock. It’s a hotspot for outdoor activity and if you love hiking this is the place for you. It sits 251 m above sea level giving excellent view of the city, because we all know that you’ve got to experience the VIEWS in new cities. Just make sure to wear the right shoes and bring your camera.
Helix Park
The Home of the Kelpies - the largest equine sculptures in the world staring 100 feet tall and weighing more that 300 tons each. They are a magical man-made wonder created by artist Andy Scott who used Clydesdale horses Duke and Baron as models. The Kelpies represent the history of the horses of Scottish industry and economy that pulled wagons, ploughs, barges, and coal ships as well as reflecting the mythological transforming beasts that possess the strength and endurance of 100 horses. They jut out of the water giving the illusion that their bodies lie just beneath the surface.
Helix Park is also another outdoor activity area linked by two National Cycle Routes as well as the new John Muir Trail.
Stirling Castle
Located in the city often called the “Gateway to the Highlands" Stirling Castle is known to many as that place Mel Gibson fought for in Braveheart. It was the home for Mary, Queen of Scots and where she was crowned. The oldest football in the world was discovered here and it belonged to Queen Mary, as she was a lover of the sport. The ball was made from an inflated pig’s bladder, wrapped with cow’s hide and is around half the size of footballs today. It was the place where flight was first attempted in Scotland. It’s grounds are haunted by the bloody murder of William, 8th Earl of Douglas in February 1452, where he was stabbed 26 times and then was flung from a castle window down into the gardens.
Doune Castle
If you go just 8 miles north of Stirling Castle you’ll find this medieval stronghold. If you’ve seen Outlander, this is Castle Leoch. Sitting on the River Teith, you can hear the babbling sounds of the water while walking the rooms.
Loch Lomond
Another place to wander through the great outdoors of Scotland. It is a lake in southern Scotland that is part of the Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park. Enjoy some hiking, wander through old grave yards, and enjoy an ice cream at one of the eateries at the base of the park.
Glasgow
Although I only spent a few hours in this city, there seems to be plenty to do, especially if you like to shop and eat. I do suggest you find the Equestrian Statue of the Duke of Wellington. You might find something odd …
You can read here about how it happened.
You also need to venture to Glasgow Cathedral and walk through its accompanying necropolis. It doesn’t disappoint and you’ll find some color crypt doors.
Inverness
Pro tip: travel here by train. You get a perfect view of the Scottish Highlands on the 3 hour ride from Edinburgh. You can easily find your way from the lovely River Ness to historic Inverness Castle to St. Andrews Cathedral. At Inverness Castle you’ll be able to get a great view of the city and two rivers that run through the city.
Have you ventured to other places in Scotland?
Where have you gone?
I’m always looking for more adventures!!
My Heart's In The Highlands
by Robert Burns
Farewell to the Highlands, farewell to the North,
The birth-place of Valour, the country of Worth;
Wherever I wander, wherever I rove,
The hills of the Highlands for ever I love.
My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here;
My heart's in the Highlands a-chasing the deer;
A-chasing the wild-deer, and following the roe,
My heart's in the Highlands wherever I go.
Farewell to the mountains high covered with snow;
Farewell to the straths and green valleys below;
Farewell to the forests and wild-hanging woods;
Farewell to the torrents and loud-pouring floods.
My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here;
My heart's in the Highlands a-chasing the deer;
A-chasing the wild-deer, and following the roe,
My heart's in the Highlands wherever I go.