In [No]r[way] should I have left.
If you haven’t experienced Norway or the Sognefjords you really should add it to your list of places to visit. It’s a natural wonder that literally will make you, well, wonder.
It’s hard to describe in words Norway’s longest fjord; fjord being the Old Norse word for long, narrow, deep inlets of the sea between high cliffs. Honestly, this experience was more of a sonic one for me more than anything. Between the stillness of the water as the ferry made its way through miles of waterway, to the sounds of the “7 Sisters” conversing with the “Suitor”, the wind trying to impart stories of the past, and an epic playlist; it all made leaving that ferry difficult. If I worked remotely, I would have no complaints living in that part of Norway. But in order to get there, I had to get to my access city of Bergen.
Although the fjords of Norway were at the top of my list to see, Bergen was not the first city I was able to see them from. Due to plane delays and mishaps with airlines (KLM -- I’m watching you >.<), and staff that was less than accommodating, I ended up routed more north than I was supposed to be… a day and half later… without luggage that didn’t arrive till two days later. Although I was rather irritated by the whole thing, the minute I looked out of my airplane window before landing at the Ålesund Airport in Vigra, magic became tangible. That first birds eye view out of my airplane window gave me a glimpse of a world where the line between imagination and reality was finely walked. I found myself beginning to understand how the beauty of nature could , in fact, be something unfathomable.
Although the stay was just long enough — oh about 4 hours — to venture out of its tiny, but quaint, airport, for a quick jaunt around the island, it made it to my list of “must returns.” It definitely deserves more of my attention. I mean come on, look at how inviting it is. In all honesty, I find it be one of the most beautiful cities in this country. Which says a lot, because I really, really like Bergen too.
The flight to Bergen was 45 minutes of pure fjord views. I don’t think my neck has recovered yet and it’s been almost a year since I’ve visited.
After finally arriving to Bergen, checking into the hotel, showering, and putting on the outfit from two days before — pro tip always carry a spare outfit in your carry on— I was ready to walk around this charming city. My hotel was located just 10 minutes from the wharf where the famous view of the Bryggen, or the dock, could perfectly be enjoyed. The Byrggen features colorful wooden houses that was once the center of the commercial trading in Norway. It is a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, and the city itself is a designated World Heritage City. Hidden just behind the iconic facades is a passage that leads to small shops, galleries and artist studios. It’s very reminiscent of a medieval village where once the old store rooms held salted cod and other goods shipped to and from Norway, you can now find an art and design community with goods created by local artists. The passages and houses at Bryggen are all have unique names - Holmedalsgården, Bellgården, Jacobfjorden, Bredsgården and Bugården - and they create a great backdrop for photo ops.
While in Bergen, besides visiting the fjords, I also suggest venturing to Mt. Ulriken. If you like stellar views and are an adrenaline junkie, it’s the best place for you. Zip lining, parasailing, hiking trails, and views. There’s not much more one could ask for……... a million dollars….a handsome Norwegian of my own… to be able to just travel all the time… eat all the food with no weight repercussions …. ANNNNDDDD I digress.
You should also venture through their fish market and enjoy some fresh seafood or the catch of the day right there on the dock. Strike up conversations with locals while you’re there, I swear Norway has the friendliest people.
Now, in order to get to the fjords you need to catch a ride to the train station, hop on a train, and then take a bus that drives you through the most insanely beautiful valley with waterfalls everywhere you turn, finally arriving at the dock where you are to board your ferry. There are many tour companies that have this adventure set up and I highly suggest doing research on this. Fortunately for me this was already designed and all I had to do was follow directions along side the travel mates that I met up with. It’s an entire days worth of adventure that becomes filled with so many picturesque moments, having cameras installed in our eyes would be worth whatever the pain would be to have it.
Once you board the ferry, definitely head for the front and make yourself cozy once you’ve walked made your rounds. Make sure to bring a jacket as the wind will make it a little chilly no matter what time of year you’re visiting. Remember to bring your head phones too. If you’re anything like me, background music to emotional landscapes are key. So I found the perfect vantage spot, right below the captains window and popped in my headphones. I’m usually not one to be anti social on trips and adventures but sometimes it can be beneficial to sit alone. Or at least until you have a friend decide to come enjoy the view with you. Shout out to you Kyle. You know friends are good ones when you can sit in silence, listen to music, and just enjoy the scenery.
Oh.. I can’t mention Kyle without talking about Kristin. If I thought I had flight issues, this girl takes THE cake. Long story short, she made it just in time to board the train at the station — tears in tow along with my luggage, I’m sure seeing my wonderful face after terrible travel days made it all worth it. (Well at least I’m 50% sure).
The fjords are utterly gorgeous. There’s something about being that far north, in the crisp clean air, with the sun shining. I’m afraid I will never be able to accurately convey my feelings while riding that ferry. I know I keep saying it was magical, and I really cannot describe it more clearly than that. I’ll just leave you here with these images that are unjustly captured. Also, if you feel like it, I’ve linked to a playlist here with a few of the songs I was listening to.
I really hope at this point you’re ready to catch a flight to Bergen.
On our journey through the Sognefjord ended in Aurlandsfjord where we were able to catch the train on the Flåm Rail line from Flåm to Myrdal and then another train from Myrdal to Bergen. It’s a ride that takes around two hours to descend 866 metres and runs through the mountainous Flåmsdalen valley, over flowing with views of trickling waterfalls, little wooden farmhouses and rugged peaks. The Flåmsbana line does a great job of mixing Norwegian culture with entertainment. During the ride, you’re given a history lesson while enjoying gorgeous views. Waterfalls are in abundance in this area and unless you’re hiking, you rarely come within 100 feet of one. However one of highlights of taking this train is that you’ve given is close look at the Kjosfossen waterfall. As the train arrives to this viewing platform, passengers are allowed to disembark for a short break. While enjoying this up close view all of a sudden music begins to play and then a mysterious woman with long hair and a red dress emerges from the forest, dancing to the Norwegian folk song. Then it hit me, the timing of this stop followed the trains history lesson on local folklore. Duh, this is the Huldra, an elusive forest spirit from Norse mythology. According to the folklore, the Huldra has often been described as a typical dairymaid wearing the clothes of a regular farm girl, although somewhat more dazzling than most girls and known to appear from out of the rain and mist, friendly and enticing to the point that no man can resist her charm. But men, you should be wary, for if she manages to lure you into the forest she’ll suck the life out of you!…. an cue the witty comments… lol.
After our brief stop we re-boarded and made our way to Myrdal, where we were greeted with news of a train delay for our next leg of our return journey. In order to pass the time we ended up exploring the area around the train station for a little while. There is not much in the area besides a few homes. It’s essentially a large valley where the temptation for hiking never falters. No matter the direction you turned there were mountains that were calling. If you crossed the tracks to the footpath just beyond the fence that led to the homes, you came across a little river that was ice cold. It was just beautiful, especially as the sun began to set.
Rick Riordan said it best, “Pretty didn't do it justice. I felt like we'd sailed into a world meant for much larger beings, a place where gods and monsters roamed freely.” Norway’s beauty is unsurpassed in my book. Every traveler exchanges pieces of themselves with the places they explore. We find new meanings, old memories, we release the tension that we carry on our shoulders, we find ourselves, we feel like ourselves again, we recharge. I regret leaving Norway, but I look fjord to my return.