Perhaps, they'll listen now: Van Gogh

There has never been a museum going experience for me, like my time at the Van Gogh Museum.
It moved me to tears.

but first… the back story

Movie poster for Loving Vincent.

I’ve always known who Van Gogh was from his Sunflowers and Starry Night to Don Mclean’s Vincent. However, about two years ago I happened upon the movie Loving Vincent while I was on a flight to somewhere overseas, for what seemed like the millionth time that year. It was the worlds first fully painted feature film (65,000 pieces of art in total), that animated his artwork to tell the story of his last weeks through interviews with characters from his life. It blended truths with a story line that introduces viewers to Van Gogh’s work, giving them a new life in this unusual kind of biopic. The protagonist of the film, Armand Roulin, is charged with delivering Vincent’s final letter to his beloved brother, Theo. Through the course of the film Armand finds a new respect for Vincent as he talks with those who knew Vincent during his last six weeks. Armand was trying to piece together exactly what had happened. Trying to understand his state of mind, how he was feeling, who his enemies were, and what secrets he had. Ultimately, it is left up to the viewer to form their own conclusions about what transpired in the time leading to his death. Armand’s character simply lays out for the viewer the kinds of relationships Van Gogh had in his last weeks. The movie provided me a new appreciation for his artwork as well as created interest in his life. Like I said, I knew who he was, but nothing much about him. After watching this movie I started reading what I could about him, watching documentaries, and finding love in his artworks.

In my consumption of all things Van Gogh, I began to fall in love with his view of the world, the way he expressed himself in writing, and in the way he loved. Sure, it’s hard to avoid the cliche reasoning as to why I and many others love his work. He was a tortured soul, but he was more complicated than that. He was educated, was well-read, fluent in multiple languages, and his photographic memory allowed him to vibrantly recall the details of a Rembrandt he’d seen years earlier. His devotion to his art speaks of a man who was not afraid to take risks. His artistic choices were thought out, deliberate. He never wanted to conform or copy the trend. He was true to himself despite the odds and carried on even if he couldn’t sell his art. Posthumously being known as the Father of Expressionism is not difficult to understand when looking at his colors, brushwork, and designs. He sold more than just what you saw visually. He sold the emotion, the connection to what he was seeing through the lens of his pain and difficulties. His uniqueness was what made him brilliant. He was stubborn and selfish yet possessed tenderness and compassion. He had his demons and he had his rays of hope.

In the last minutes of the Doctor Who episode “Vincent and the Doctor” the Doctor and Amy brought Vincent to a modern day exhibit of his work at the Muse D’Orsay in Paris, where he overhears Dr. Black give his thoughts on his artwork, thoughts that resonated with me.

 

“His command of color, the most magnificent. He transformed the pain of his tormented life into ecstatic beauty. Pain is easy to portray, but to use your passion and pain to portray the ecstasy and joy and magnificence of our world. No one had ever done it before. Perhaps no one ever will again. To my mind, that strange, wild man who roamed the fields of Provence was not only the world's greatest artist, but also one of the greatest men who ever lived.”
- Dr. Black, Doctor Who, Episode 10

I will never know Vincent Van Gogh, but I feel like I do.

The Museum…

On one of my many adventures to Europe, I was finally able to spend time in Amsterdam where my number one bucket list item for the city was to visit the Van Gogh Museum. I was lucky enough to get a ticket during my stay, as they tend to sell out (or so I had been told by friends). *Pro-tip, purchase your tickets online before you go.*

Entering the museum was just like any other time, until I walked into gallery on the first floor.
I was struck instantly by the eyes of Van Gogh.

Self Portrait in Felt Hat, 1887 . Collection of the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam.

Self Portrait in Felt Hat, 1887 . Collection of the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam.

As I set foot in the gallery the first work I stopped at was Self Portrait with Pipe, Spring 1886. I had seen a few of his portraits in books and on internet searches but they’re so flat, so one dimensional, that when you see the piece in person you realize what you’d been missing. Van Gogh had painted many self portraits throughout the years, playing with colors and textures, forms, and expressions. When you walk through a room lined with his many portraits it’s easy to see. Moving from one portrait to the next I kept getting stopped by his eyes. It was just an art piece, it’s inanimate… yet the life that he was able to be express was hauntingly beautiful. The age old expression that the eyes are a window to the soul, never felt so real as it did in those moments. We were given glimpses into his head space and his emotions. We might not ever fully comprehend the story behind the art but, it’s there for us to see if we just pay attention. Maybe he was trying to get us to understand that point — if we just paid attention more, maybe we could understand more.

Self Portrait with Pipe, 1886. Collection of the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam.

Self Portrait with Pipe, 1886. Collection of the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam.

The other amazing thing that stood out to me while walking through the gallery was that the shape of his eyes. The were kept consistent despite technique. Each portrait added to the printed timeline on the wall, allowing us to visually see the correlation between period and style. I also couldn’t help humming to myself the Don Mclean song. So like the softy that I am, I put my headphones in and listened to the Josh Groban version of the song a few times… ok maybe I had it on repeat… and maybe I was listening to it while walking through the whole museum. I also decided to sit for a moment in the gallery, in front of Self Portrait in Front of the Easel, 1888 and decided to people watch. It was a sight to see, so many people wandering from piece to piece. Some giving due diligence, but the majority of them just wandering from piece to piece. Everyone goes through museums differently, I get that. Not everyone is interested in the same things. But, it was just amazing to watch people glance, and then go about their day.

While sitting on the bench I had a moment where II flashed back to the Doctor Who episode and imagined what Van Gogh’s reaction would be if he was sitting there next to me, watching the people go by. On the one hand, I imagine that he would be elated having a museum dedicated just to him and having people fawn over his life’s work. On the other, I imagine him being confounded by the people who spared less than a minute at artworks that took hours to complete, yet they paid to just glimpse them. But that’s neither here nor there as it’s something that will never happen . Unless there happens to be a time machine laying around — anyone know the 1-800 number for the Tardis?

As I continued floor by floor of the museum, I became engrossed in the story that was unfolding. I think I aimlessly wondered from room to room and sometimes wound up back in the same places I had just walked from. I remember passing certain people time and time again. I must have looked dazed. The second floor of the museum covers his life as a peasant, his changing perspectives, his time in Paris and who he made friends with while there, and the Japanese influence he fell in love with. Japan is one of my favorite places so I can understand his draw to it. It was there on the second floor that I was finally able to see many of the works displayed in books and in the documentaries, up close. Sunflowers, The Yellow House (the Street), The Bedroom, Irises, The Potato Eaters, Almond Blossom, and Pollard Birches - all pieces with details that I’ve missed. The more that I looked at each work the more the color and the brushstrokes spoke. He used his color choices to define space, like how he illustrated the climate in The Yellow House with the sun directly shining on the facade facing you contrasting the greens in the shadows and the blue sky.

It wasn’t until I came to The Window in the Studio which was painted in October of 1889, that the tears came. In May of 1889 Van Gogh admitted himself as a patient to the Saint Paul de Mausole asylum in Saint Rémy de Provence until the following year. There were a series of events that culminated in his voluntary admission. Starting with his relationship with painter Paul Gauguin who moved to Arles to work with Van Gogh. One of Van Gogh’s dreams was to create an artist colony in Arles and he thought with Gauguin moving in, his dream would become a reality. However, their relationship soon deteriorated as tensions over how art should be created rose. Van Gogh believed that working from reality was the way to go and Gauguin believed that imagination was more important. One argument lead to another until one night just before Christmas in 1889, Van Gogh was left so distraught from their arguing that he cut off his left ear. According to the doctor that treated Van Gogh, when asked what drove him to cutting his ear off, Van Gogh’s reply was that it was personal matter.

The Yellow House (The Street), 1888. Collection of the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands.

The Yellow House (The Street), 1888. Collection of the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Window in the Studio, 1889. Collection of the Vincent Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Window in the Studio, 1889. Collection of the Vincent Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands.

In a letter to his brother, Theo, Van Gogh wrote “I well knew that one could break one’s arms and legs before, and that then afterwards that could get better but I didn’t know that one could break one’s brain and that afterwards that got better too.” After coming to his senses while hospitalized he soon found himself readmitted due to new breakdowns. These episodes Van Gogh experienced often left him confused, scrambling to pick up the pieces of life in between them. Life for him did not get better as his neighbors in Arles had become afraid of him and wanted him out of his apartment in the Yellow House. In April, he admitted himself to the asylum in Saint Rémy. After May 1890 he moved to a village near Paris called Auvers in order to be closer to his brother. Despite painting consistently in his final months, he never recovered… he lost hope… and eventually took his own life.

Standing in front of The Window in the Studio, all of that kind of slammed into me and tears welled up. Coupled with Josh Groban singly sweetly in my ear about Vincent. During his stay at the asylum he threw himself into his art, hating idleness. He enlivened his studio with color using dark colors for outlines rather than letting he colors define the space like he did in The Yellow House. I interpret this painting a little differently, Vincent might have just been painting what he was looking at, but to me it’s a commentary on his mindset. Outside his window was a world vibrant and clear, full of beauty. The color he chose for the sky is the first thing my eye is drawn to. Inside his room, which was more like his mind, was still vivd in color but was muddy and muted. Remember my reference to windows and souls? Here it’s literal. The window is his how he looks out on the world, but the room is his mind trying to compute and cope with the world in the midst of his mental breakdowns. It’s a very fascinating thought. To me, this artwork represents more than just the room he stayed. It represents his mindset. Then when you think about the story of his life, his relationships and the emotions he was processing, it’s hard for this to not be one of my favorites, actually it is my favorite work of his.

Do you have a favorite Van Gogh piece? If so, what it is and why! I’m always interested in hearing other peoples thoughts.

P.S.

The whole reason I even started this blog post, was because the Houston Museum of Fine Arts just opened an exhibit Vincent van Gogh: His Life in Art which will showcase his evolution as an artist. It is the only venue that will house this exhibit of 50 masterworks and I’m SO excited to go see it. The show runs until June 27th and I’ll be there to see it in April. From what I’ve been able to read about the exhibit and the few clips on it, there are some interactive areas where they’ve blown up images or recreated the scenes for you to be a part of. I’m hoping to have a moment with my window once again and visit with some of my other friends.

The man [and the place] that started it all...

 

L’appréciation est une chose merveilleuse. Cela fait que ce qui est excellent chez les autres nous appartient également.
- Voltaire

 

My father is one of the biggest attributes to my life in both work ethic and love of travel. If it wasn’t for him always talking about far off places and conjuring picturesque views of the place he grew up, things might have been a little different.

Born on August 1, 1955 in Grenoble, a city in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in southeastern France, my dads childhood was spent roaming château's, playing in fields where Napoleon Bonaparte crossed, fishing, eating apples in orchards, ice skating on one of the three frozen lakes in the area, and getting into trouble with his best friend Yves. Despite being born in and growing up in France, both of my grandparents were Italian through and through. Hailing from the Bari/Naples regions in southern Italy (I guess ‘south’ is a trend in my family, as I live south as well). In 1966 though, his family made the decision to move to the United States, ending up in Niles, Ohio. A move that I’m forever grateful for despite the uncertainty it caused and the heartaches that I’m sure they went through.

Fast forwarding to my childhood in the 1990’s and being the last of three kids AND the only one who was brought up in the states since birth — eventually my dad had joined the military and my sisters were brought up in Germany and Holland for their formative years — dreaming of far off places was a common occurrence. Especially when bedtime stories consisted of exotic places. It wasn’t until my high school years that I was able to finally visit my dads hometown and let me tell you, it was just as magical as I had envisioned.

Panoramic view of Grenoble in the spring from the Bastille.

Grenoble

Known as the “capital of the Alps” by locals, Grenoble is often missed by first-time travelers to France. While the Eiffel Tower is more iconic, the majesty of the Alps that literally surround the city give you a Sound of Music “hills are alive” moment. It’s a city that holds over 2,000 years of history, starting from its inception as a a Gallic village (aka the Iron Age) through the collapse of the Roman Empire and into the 11th century when the Counts of Albon chose the city from several of their territories in the region and made it the capital. Mostly because of its fortified location at the meeting of the Drac and Isére rivers and proximity to the Alps.

One of the more interesting historical facts about the city is that it was the location of one of the first disturbances that set the scene for the French Revolution. Obviously, like the rest of France, Grenoble was facing financial hardship from the economic crises, however this was the city that sparked the fires of revolution. The solution the royal government came up with was more monetary reforms…. aka taxes. They wanted to enact a tax to deal with debt…. does anyone else see the irony in that? Well luckily the parlements (think of them as various local branches of governance that held judicial powers) did, making them the Robinhood to King John, if you get what I mean. So, the royal government tried to circumvent the lack of support from these local governing agencies by forcing through laws that effectively diminished their power despite the declaration that these laws were illegal. Anyone hear Jean Valjean singing yet?

As tensions continued to rise and the stress of poor harvests and high costs of bread, made worse by the refusal to relinquish any financial burdens on the poor, things weren’t looking good in Grenoble. In June of 1788, a group of 300-400 men and women armed with weapons, from stones to axes, rushed the city gates as the royal government ordered the local army to banish the magistrates within the local parlements. Literal alarm bells were rung as the riot ensued until they seized control of the city from the army. This day is referred to as the “Day of the Tiles,” and shortly after this incident the French Revolution would start. Allowing Grenoble to claim itself as the ‘cradle of the revolution'.

My Visit

A vast majority of the time spent in my dads hometown was visiting relatives in the surrounding areas. However, there are a few distinct places that I want to call attention to that I feel anyone who is looking for an “other than Paris” destination while venturing in France would appreciate. They are also the places that made me fall in love with Southern France.

Vielle Ville (Old Town)

On the bank of the Isère river you’ll find the old town which, like most old towns, can be explored by foot. Of the many restaurants and old buildings you’ll see the Place Grenette, the Grande Rue, the Place St-André, with the Ancien Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné, or the former parliamentary palace for the region. There’s the Halles Ste-Claire and the Place aux Herbes which are market areas and if you’re in any foreign country, their markets are a must. They’re the places you can people watch or feel part of the economy the most. Nothing like watching tourists haggle (or not haggle depending on where you’re at).

If you’re like me and love looking at architecture in the places you travel, in Vielle Ville you’ll find many interesting churches whose structures throw you back to the 13th century.

La Bastille

For those that love getting that unique view of the city from above, this is the place for it. Even though it’s one of the most visited tourist sites, because come on, views are everything, it provides one of my favorites; you get both the town and the surrounding mountains. You literally feel enveloped in the Alps. The Bastille, or fort, dates back to the Middle Ages, remember the Counts of Albon? To that time period. It’s location was important as it’s where the French Alpine frontier and the Kingdom of the Savoy (Italy) met.

There are two ways to get to the top, one requires great outdoor shoes and the other just a short ride via cable car. If you choose the cable car you’ll enjoy a 180° view of the town and the Isère river. Installed in 1875 for freight movement from the quarry below, the cable cars didn’t become a tourist thing until 1934 when the rock quarry was officially abandoned. To get to the top you ride in what locals call les bulles aka bubbles. Once at the top you’ll be able to walk through temporary exhibits, venture through the small military museum, walk the viewing deck, and pay respects to mountain troops of old. There are also two restaurants at the top where you can enjoy a nice beer at a higher altitude. [Side note for the foodies: restaurant du Téléférique, is great and has an overhanging terrace and Le Pèr’Gras – treat yourself to something sweet!]

If you venture up by foot, it takes about 30-45 mins at a leisurely pace to walk up the hill. There are two ways for the climb, divided by a footpath, making up the 205m of vertical ascent. If you’re really an outdoorsy kind of person the second portion is more challenging and might require some equipment. It’s easily one of the best recreational areas and the view you get from any angle is amazing.

La Salette and Château des Herbeys

If it wasn’t for my dads best friend Yves, I would have never known about either these two places. On one of our visits with him he asked for a full day to be set aside. He wanted to take us up to the second sanctioned apparition site in France. Now regardless of you being religious or not, it was a religious experience. Both in the miracle of living and for the views. I say the miracle of living though because to get up to La Salette you have to take many… and I mean many… hair pin curves/turns on a road that is only big enough for one car with two way traffic. I don’t get car sick or even motion sickness. That day, I was as white as the background you’re reading off of. I was ghostly. When we finally got to the top, I got out of the car and sat on the ground wishing it would hug me back. Luckily, Yves had brought soda with him (it’s not pop, I’m from the south y’all) and I was able to recover with a quick sugar boost. I will forever remember that day and have never NOT driven when it comes to windy roads since.

At just an hour and half outside of Grenoble and at an altitude of about 6,000 feet, you’ll find a church. With nothing else around but mountains. To the left of the church you’ll find a statue of the Virgin Mary and two children; a depiction of the Marian apparition. If you want to know more about the story you can read it here. The church itself is simple but has some amazing stained glass.

So picturesque.

After we walked around the outdoor area, venturing in and out of the church, we made our way back down. I fared better as I sat in the front, but not by much.

Yves knew how much I loved trying new cuisine so he made a surprise stop at Château des Herbeys that came with a five course gastronomic meal. The château was built in the 17th century and is listed as an historic monument. You can walk around the grounds and enjoy the landscape and deer in the surrounding areas. It was also converted into a hotel so if you choose, you can stay and also enjoy the many outdoor activities the place as to offer.

Château de Vizzile

If you venture south of the city 20 minutes you’ll find yourself in the town of Vizille where you will find more revolution history. It’s the home to the Musée de la Révolution Française that displays rare materials devoted to the revolution. The museum lives in the château that was once the grandest in the area and was built in the 17th century by François de Bonne, duc de Lesdiguières, the last Connétable de France. The château is surround by a hundred hectares (250 acres) of greens, sheets of water and canals, and a hunting park. In July 1788, just a month after the famed “Day of the Tiles” the Assemblée des notables gathered in the salle du jeu de paume, where their discussions led to the new vision of France. This is where opposition to absolutist monarchy finally came out into the open (again cue Les Mis and entre Enjolras).

This was my image of a fairy tale castle. I have always said I wanted to get married here, or at least take some pretty epic photos. My dad used to play in the gardens and often feed the ducks and swans that the pond sees during the warm months.

The Prairie of the Meeting/Laffrey & La Mure

Think of Grenoble as the circular part of a laddle and to get to the handle you venture up the neck and at the top you’ll reach the small towns of La Mure (where their open air market is one of my favorites) and Ponsonnas (where my great uncle/aunt live). However to get there you have to pass through the famed “Prairie of the Meeting,” which is a great spot for picnic or to take in one of the three lakes along the road.

Travel Legacy

With how much I love this place you would think I venture back often. But, I don’t… even though I really should.

The places that my dad ventured when he was a kid shine in my memory much like the sun does in the sky. It’s a place that no one can touch or talk me out of. It’s a place whereI learned to breathe and take in everything around me. It’s a place that allowed me to connect to a part of my dad that was only a figment of my imagination. When he came to the US, it seemed like his connection to the “old world” was severed. It was like when you found out that Santa wasn’t as real as you thought he was, and the magic disappeared. But we keep the magic of that jolly man in a red suit by telling the stories and reliving the feelings. So when those stories of apple eating in lavender fields and flying kites by Napoleon’s head were told, that magic reignited.

Without those stories and that connection, my love of experiencing all the “new” the world has to offer would not be as strong. The newness of the old and the wonder that I feel while wandering is because of the man that loved me first. It’s because of the place I loved first.

Dad
 
Be the things you loved most about the people who are gone.
— Unknown